FOR THE GERMAN PERFUMER GEZA SCHOEN, CREATING FUN, UNCONVENTIONAL FRAGRANCES IS A SERIOUS ENDEAVOR. WE VISIT HIS BERLIN LABORATORY.
Independent perfumer Geza Schoen knows what works for him. “Fresh, spicy, balsamic, woody, and animalic,” he says resolutely. “Those are qualities you’ll always find in my perfumes.” At 46, Schoen has been in the business of making scents for a quarter century and has developed “hundreds, if not thousands,” of fragrances, most famously Molecule 01, an aroma that plays with perception. With Schoen, scent takes on unfamiliar and eccentric dimensions. Not everyone can smell Molecule 01 from the bottle, for example. One formulation of Wode, another Schoen fragrance, is applied as a cobalt blue “paint.” His Beautiful Mind series celebrates female intelligence. And he has done special fragrances for offbeat clients like Bombay Sapphire and the art-book publisher Steidl.